Detour

Nikšić, Montenegro

Well, we were trying to drive to Ďabjlak, but approached a section of highway in the middle of road construction where we couldn’t get through. There was a big truck - the one with the huge front roller that flattens the pavement - that was parked diagonally across the road. No one could get through. Cars were driving up, then turning right back around.

Okay, so we back up and look on Google maps for another route. After driving 10-15 minutes deeper into a small village with only dead end dirt road and no apparent exits, we headed back out to the highway. Maybe we can get through now?

Nope. Three men, two sitting on the dirt, one standing, all sweaty and dirty from construction work, just kept shaking their heads, “no.” Can we go through? No. Closed.

According to the map, to detour we must then drive another hour south to Podgorica, then back up north another route farther east. We’re still 3 hours out. Damn. Texting the guest house owner in Ďabjlak, we learn the road will be closed until 7pm. How do they know? How does she know? We ask if there is a faster way than through Podgorica, which we then hear is also unreachable due to construction. Huh? Really? And again, how do they know that??

So we’re sitting in a cafe bar, drinking iced teas and smoothies and iced coffees and Mirindas until the road opens up.

Two days ago while paddle boarding my phone got wet with salt water. Now it won’t turn on. It’s hard to be a good travel partner without a phone to navigate, look up next stops, find check-in information, etc. I also want to take pictures of everything. Especially on our last day in places, I find myself taking heaps of photos. I just don’t want to forget a thing.

This morning we went on a 3-hour boat ride which was indeed mostly just a boat ride. Our very handsome Montenegrin boat captain pointed out a WWII submarine hideout and there was a brief, 15-minute stop at a tiny island church not far out of Kotor Bay. At Blue Cave, our farthest point outside the Bay and into the Adriatic Sea, we got to jump out and swim.

Diving from a boat into the clear sea is a pure pleasure of the senses, a full-body reset. From head to toe, the instant from sound to silence, warm sun to chill sea, dry to sleek, followed by a gasp of air, the recovery of your heartbeat, wiping the saltwater from your eyes and mouth, all limbs moving gently to keep you afloat.