Feats of culture

Xi’an, China

Via subway and taxi, today we visited the terra cotta army commissioned by Qin Chi Huang in 246 BC, the first emperor of the Qin dynasty (or pronounced “die-nasty” as Leo points out). To believe in the afterlife so ferociously and to believe that in that afterlife you need and deserve to be protected to the point of commanding 700,000 people over three decades to meticulously build you an army requires astonishing arrogance. The fear and ego it took to commission the terra cotta army is more remarkable to me than the feat itself.

We get stared at a lot here. I’ve seen very, very few white-faced foreigners in China. I do wish I knew what they were saying as they point at us and talk, but no matter. I find myself wanting to conform, fit in, not be loud. That’s all good, I think, especially according to the U.S. State department recommendations for travel in foreign countries, specifically to China where detainment can occur without notice or due process. But, conforming to those around you is a very non-American value. “Doe normaal” is a Dutch phrase reflecting a similar cultural value. Just be normal.

But being mediocre is also my worst nightmare. Conflicting values and conflicting urges - to be the same, but also to be different.

Yesterday riding the 8-mile path along the top of the Xi’an city wall was a trip highlight. It felt so freeing to be on a bicycle. The time it took to cycle the length of it - with stops, nearly 3 hours! - gave a unique perspective on the vastness of this 12m high wall built in the 1300s to fortify the city.

Also, being together 24/7 is a real challenge.